LONDON
MUSEUMS
The British compulsion to collect artifacts means that
Britain has the best museums in the world - we had a
whole empire to plunder. Below is a shortlist of things
that our guides and surveys of visitors rate the highest,
but whatever your interest, from 17th Century fans,
to fan engines, there's a museum specifically catering
to your taste. And virtually all of them are free....
The British Museum
Back from a substantial refit and better than ever,
the best museum in the world where 4000 year old Pharoahs
enjoy a busier afterlife than they planned for and where
Karl Marx meets Buddha. Conveniently situated north
of Covent Garden, on Great Russell Street, and just
east of Oxford Street's main shopping drag. Remember
to visit the reading room - in which, due to the numbers
of tourists it is now impossible to read. The African
collection, newly re-opened, is the world's largest
(and the best in terms of range and quality) with over
200,000 objects, of which 600 pieces are on show to
the public at any one time. If you are a collector or
researcher you can make an appointment to see the rest.
Saturday - Wednesday 10.00-17.30, Thursday - Friday
10.00-20.30. Free. Tube:
Tottenham Court Road (Northern/Central),
Bus: Tottenham Court Road or New Oxford Street.
Sir John Soane's MuseumA
miniature British Museum. You can visit it as part
of one of our walks (which
includes the Inns of Court and the Masonic Temple)
that links some of London's most beautiful and least
known sights. So full of objects that every bit of
wall and ceiling is used. Great collection of Hogarth
prints and friendly curators full of great anecdotes.
Hidden panels reveal even more paintings. Tuesday
to Saturday 10.00-17.00. Free. Tube:
Holborn (Central). Bus: Holborn
Natural History and Science Museums
There's a high concentration of museums in South Kensington
(well signposted from the tube) and these two are
great for a rainy day. Kids love them. They celebrate
the Victorian's love of Science and Nature - many
of the machines that changed history are here - Britain
has been the world's powerhouse of science - the Computer,
the Fax, the WWW, the jet engine, the train, the television,
Penicillin, the list is endless. But Tyrannosaurus Rex
puts man in his place. The Natural History Museum
is a beautiful building in itself - if you had to
visit one museum here it's a tough decision: either
the animatronic dinosaur for Jurassic Park fans, or
the bells and whistles of the Science museum - better
to briefly visit both as they're free.
The Science Museum's new Wellcome wing is simply astounding.
It's right up to the minute - if a breakthrough is
made, they'll have an exhibit up and running in as
little as 24 hours. There's a team of scientists on
hand conducting real experiments in which you can
be a subject, if you wish - the first team took swabs
from people's mouths and a photo to match facial shape
with their genes. We think this vies with the Tate
Modern as the best new addition to London's art/museum
scene. Both open every day 10.00 to 18.00, (Natural
History opens at 11:00 on Sundays). Free.
Tube:
South Kensington (Circle/Piccadilly), Bus:
Cromwell Road
Victoria Albert Museum
A huge museum of culture, conveniently situated
next door to the Science museums and great for Harrods.
It's worth the visit for the cast rooms alone. The
new British Culture galleries have been refitted and
revitalised at a cost of over £31 million (subsidised
in part by a gambling tax) and the museum's now entirely
free - Prince Charles had a lot of fun with the interactive
corset display on the opening day, confirming all
our suspicions of inbreeding. What's fascinating about
the British Galleries is the closeness of the objects
- lots are there to be touched, and the place is crammed
full of stuff (like the Soane) - anyone who's ever
bought a sofa, wallpapered a room, chosen cutlery
or curtains will be fascinated by the displays - but
intermingled are great works of art and reconstructed
period rooms. There are several resource rooms with
computers, AV displays and book collections to be
poured over. Tours are free, as they are of the whole
museum, and you can even borrow a lightweight folding
stool to take round with you.
You can spend hours in here just wandering - whatever
it is you're interested, in it'll be in here - our
advice, as always is to pop in several times rather
than do a marathon. Less formal than the British Museum,
the level of interactivity is very high and kids seem
to love the hands-on stuff (eg: dressing up in old
costumes, building pieces of furniture, designing
their own monograms and seeing them put onto cutlery,
weaving oriental carpets). Spontaneous concerts in
the entrance hall on Sundays. There are regular demonstrations
of crafts - for which see the website or pick up a
leaflet. The cafe, which was a trendy place to hang
out, is now scruffy and very expensive. Open 10.00-18.00
daily, on Wednesdays and the last Friday in the month
open to 22.00). Free. Also includes Aspley House,
at Hyde Park Corner (see Historic London
). For directions see Natural History Museum,
above.
Imperial War Museum
The name says it all, though it's not just
about different ways of killing, recently they've become
softer, looking at the experience of war rather than
its prosecution. Some great exhibitions such as 'The
Blitz' and 'The Holocaust' are quite moving. Is located
on the site of St Mary's Bethlehem hospital - better
known as Bedlam. 10.00-18.00 daily. Free. Tube:
Lambeth North (Bakerloo) Bus: Westminster
Bridge Road/St George's Circus
National Maritime Museum
In Britain you're never more than 60 miles from
the sea. Britannia really did rule the waves and this
is how she did it. Good reason to visit beautiful Greenwich.
Open every day 10.00-17.00. Free.
Tube: Cutty Sark (Docklands), Train
from Waterloo. Charing Cross or London Bridge.
Or try: DLR to Island Gardens, foot tunnel
to Greenwich. Back by ferry.
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